In front of West Fortress Mountain, white egrets soar; Peach blossoms flow, mandarin fish grow plump.
In the past, people ate fresh food. Later, they discovered that even stinky food could be eaten. What else could they do? Eat it! As long as it’s edible and won’t kill you, it’s delicious.
Stinky mandarin fish is a dish made from mandarin fish, ginger, and red chili peppers. Mandarin fish is suitable for most people, especially those with weak constitutions, fatigue, spleen and stomach deficiencies, poor appetite, or malnutrition.
Hairy tofu, also known as fermented tofu, is a traditional Han Chinese dish from the HS area of AH Province. It is made through artificial fermentation, causing a layer of white fuzz to grow on the surface of the tofu. Because the fermentation converts plant proteins into various amino acids, it tastes exceptionally fresh after cooking.
Tonight, Director Ren arranged a culinary journey—a feast for the taste buds. The protagonist from the documentary, Old Huang, personally cooked the meal.
As they ate, Old Huang explained, “This season is the perfect time for mandarin fish. Stinky mandarin fish is a specialty, but fresh mandarin fish is also delicious. Today, for our honored guests, I’ve prepared two dishes—one fresh, one stinky.”
“Let’s start with the fresh one. It’s simple—just scallions, ginger, and garlic, steamed. The focus is on freshness.”
Zhou You took a bite. It tasted similar to sea bass—tender, with few bones. No wonder the locals went to such lengths to preserve this fresh fish.
According to Old Huang, the locals ate a lot of fresh fish, but they were also used to stinky mandarin fish. In the past, there wasn’t always enough fresh fish to go around.
Zhou You could understand that. It was like how the locals in Luzhou loved salted chicken, salted goose, and sausages—all habits born from past scarcity. Now, fresh food was available anytime, but they still craved that salty, preserved taste every now and then.
“Stinky mandarin fish is mostly braised—red-cooked, soy-sauce braised, or oil-drizzled. The skin is tender, the sauce thick, fully showcasing our Huizhou cuisine’s emphasis on heavy oil, strong heat, deep color, and rich flavor,” Old Huang continued.
“When it’s done, the patterns on the fish’s back are clear, the meat is firm. When you pick it up with chopsticks, you can see distinct garlic-clove-shaped pieces. Unlike other fish, stinky mandarin fish’s meat easily comes off in large chunks.”
With few bones and plenty of meat, the fish separated into petal-like pieces, paired with a golden exterior, making it irresistible.
Wang Fangfang was also devouring it silently.
The crew members were tempted too. After working hard all day, they were starving, and being allowed to film but not eat was unbearable.
Everyone gathered around the table, indulging heartily.
After finishing the stinky mandarin fish, they moved on to the hairy tofu.
“Fangfang, you try it first. You girls like stinky tofu,” Zhou You nudged Wang Fangfang with his elbow, urging her to taste it.
Wang Fangfang was indeed curious. The hairy tofu was fried until golden and glossy, topped with a layer of chili sauce. It reminded her of the stinky tofu she usually ate.
She picked up a piece with her chopsticks and brought it to her bowl. First, she sniffed it—it did have a bit of a stench. She couldn’t resist popping it into her mouth. “Hmm, it’s okay. I can’t really tell if it’s good or bad. It’s just stinky tofu, I guess.”
Zhou You wasn’t a fan of stinky tofu, but since they were here, he had to try it. It was passable—the outside was a bit dry, and the inside was either tender or rotten, soft and sticky.
He ate one piece and left the rest.
Many people who tried these delicacies from the documentary found them hard to get used to. The reason was simple.
Local specialties are usually shaped by the region’s climate, soil, and culture—living off the land and water. Northerners can’t get used to southern food, and vice versa. Some love sour, others love spicy.
But for those who enjoy trying new things, they might stumble upon something that suits their taste, achieving a harmony of soul and body.
The remaining dishes were also local specialties. After all, they were just here for fun.
“Director Ren, I’m curious—how do you find these foods?” Zhou You asked a question that had been on his mind.
Director Ren smiled. “Mystically speaking, it’s fate. Practically, it’s through researching ancient texts, asking locals, and a bit of luck.”
“We film a lot more than what you see. In the end, not everything makes the cut—time is limited.”
The next day, they followed the crew for half a day.
Filming a food documentary was different from other documentaries. Others focused on real life, but food documentaries often required multiple takes to capture the color, aroma, and taste.
Wang Fangfang found it fascinating and even chatted with the cameraman.
“Brother You, what if we got the crew to film at our swimming pool? Could it end up on CCTV?”
“You’re really dreaming. A food show filming a swimming pool? Who would watch that?” But in the future, we could film it ourselves.
Thinking about it, Zhou You said to her, “You could try building your own brand later. With smartphones becoming more common, big changes are coming. There are plenty of opportunities for individuals.”
Wang Fangfang listened, half-understanding. In times of change, many people stumble forward blindly. Everyone walks a different path—some end up on a road to life, others on a road to ruin.
Only later, when looking back, do they realize they weren’t as clever as they thought. It was all just coincidence and fate.
This was a topic often debated in history: Do times create heroes, or do heroes create times?
The debate rages on to this day.
In the afternoon, they said goodbye to Director Ren and prepared to climb Mount Huangshan.
They drove to a small town at the foot of the mountain. It wasn’t peak tourist season, so there were plenty of hotels. They chose one near the scenic area entrance.
Mount Huangshan, towering in HS City, AH Province, is a UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage site and a Global Geopark, hailed as “Heaven on Earth” and “The Most Extraordinary Mountain Under Heaven.”
After checking in, Zhou You went to the front desk. “Boss, we’re here on a whim. We want to stay overnight at the summit tomorrow. Do you have any connections to arrange that?”
Hotel owners here all had their channels. The area was small, and many were local villagers.
Living off the mountain, a hotel could support a family without needing to work elsewhere.
The boss smiled warmly. “No problem. I also run a hotel at the summit.”
“Impressive, boss—a hotel on the summit,” Zhou You said enviously. That was a golden goose. Mount Huangshan wasn’t going anywhere. As long as nothing drastic changed, it was a surefire way to support three generations.
“Ah, just making a living. Maintenance costs are high. I’ll have them save a room for you. The temperature difference between the summit and the base is big. We provide clothes, but you can bring your own if you prefer,” the boss kindly reminded him.
Zhou You wasn’t about to bring extra stuff. Climbing Mount Huangshan was tiring enough. Carrying a bunch of things would be exhausting. Besides, there were food and drinks along the way, and porters to help.
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